Saturday, June 9, 2012

How to Surf - by http://www.extremehorizon.com/surf-shop/learn_to_surf.html

 

Learn How To Surf


Learning how to surf can be a life changing experience. Surfers enjoy the rush of dropping into a glassy wave, flying along the wave face, more often than not in some of the most exotic and exiting places on earth. If that sounds appealing read our learn to surf guide below which will provide all of the basics you'll need to know before taking your first surf lesson or hiring your first surfboard. If you learn how to surf correctly you'll progress much more rapidly from a surf school beginner to becoming a real surfer.
If you've seen our essential surf equipment guide page, you should have a good idea on which surfboard is ideal to learn to surf on and we will hopefully have given you the initial understanding on what is the right sized soft board, pop out or mal surfboard with which to take your first steps into becoming a surfer.

Choose the Right Spot

Surf breaks vary enormously and if you try to learn at the wrong one it can slow down the learning process no end, possibly get you hurt and label you as a nuisance to other surfers. The answer is to forget reef breaks (surf breaking over, rock, coral etc) and heavy, hollow beach breaks and pick a beach with an easy, spilling, mushy break wave in the 2-4ft range. It may not be glamorous but it will be the best place to start. Also try and find a spot with no crowds- battling with hundreds of other beginners and more experienced surfers is not the way to go. If you have a little space it will be easier to learn.

Paddling

Learn to Surf - Paddling
You have your new surfboard under your arm and you've chosen a mushy, uncrowded spot for a surf, it's now time to paddle out! Paddling is an essential surfing skill so lots of practice at this will bring its rewards. Start in small waves and if possible paddle out when there is a lull in the waves. It's best to walk your board out until you are in waist deep water, then lay your body on the deck of your surfboard. On a shortboard keep your weight centred on the middle of the board and on a longboard position yourself so the nose is around 1inch out of the water. The trick is to find the optimum trim position for the board which will provide least resistance when paddling. Once you feel the board gliding through the water with ease you'll have found the ideal trim, so remember your position and stick with it.

Start to paddle using a crawl stroke with your arms, using cupped hands to increase the pull. If you hit bumpy water or "chop", lift your chest slightly and lessen your weight on the board so the nose and rails don't go under. Once you have learnt to balance your right and left sides, head, and legs, paddle your board out to the lineup you're on the way!

Duck Diving

Learn to Surf - Duck DivingLearn to Surf - Duck Divers
Duck-diving is a technique to allow you to pass under breaking waves when paddling out, rather than getting hammered by each breaking wave. Duck-diving applies to shortboards which are smaller and lighter, for longboards there are a number of techniques used to achieve the same result. To duck-dive a shortboard, try to have as much paddling speed as possible when approaching the wave. At about two feet before making contact with the white water, grab both rails (edges of the surfboard) halfway between the nose and midpoint of your board. Push all your upper body weight onto your hands and arms until you feel the nose begin to go under. Point your head down and let your body follow. Once your body is just below the surface, bend your front leg and use that knee to push the tail under the wave. Your momentum should thrust you under the quickly passing wave and only require you to be under water for a short time. As the wave passes let the flotation of your board lift you to the surface. Now you have the skill to paddle to the lineup or to the next wave and duck under it.

For paddling out on a longboard there are a few ways of tackling the breaking waves: The slice and duck, Eskimo roll, push-ups and the shoot and scoot. On smaller waves the push-up technique is probably best. Just push up your chest and the wave will pass under your body and over the board. The shoot and scoot method is where you sit at the back of your board and sink the tail, grabbing the rails around the centre of the board so it raises above the oncoming wave. Don't grab the surfboard at the nose or allow the nose to raise too much as you'll flip the board. The Eskimo roll is the old school method of getting out back.

It's simply a matter of grabbing the board and rolling it over so that the wave passes over the top of you. This is maybe not the most effective method as there is a chance you can get drilled by the wave and pushed further back to shore. The final method is the slice and duck which is executed by pushing down on one side of the surfboard so that it slices/sinks into the water, at the same time push down on the deck so that the board nose ducks under the water in the same way as a duck dive.

Catching a Wave

Learn to Surf - Catching a Wave Learn to Surf - First Wave
To begin with, rather than paddling straight out the back into the line up, it's best to catch a few broken whitewater waves in shallower water. You should have your ideal trim/paddling position at this stage, so point your board directly towards the beach and as the whitewater approaches paddle towards shore. The wave should pick you up and push you forward which is an unmistakable feeling, however if your board pearls or nosedives you have set off positioned too far forward on the board, likewise if the wave passes under you are positioned too far back on the board.

It's fun to catch and ride a few to the beach whilst still laying down to get the feeling of the wave, after that it's time to stand up which we will go onto in the next section. Once you have the hang of catching white water it's time to use those paddling skills and get out into the lineup to catch the unbroken waves which is what surfing is all about. Once in the lineup, past where the waves are breaking, sit up and straddle your board (you might want to practice the art of sitting on your board as it takes a little time to find your balance). Always face out to sea until you are ready to catch a wave. Practice swinging the nose of the board left or right so that you can easily turn around to catch an oncoming wave. Pick a wave that has not broken and be sure to sit far enough out among the sloping swells, not where the waves are standing up straight.

As a wave approaches, turn the nose of your board toward the beach, lay down and begin paddling. As you feel the wave lift you and your board, paddle as hard as you can and lean your weight forward. The natural tendency is to lean back to keep the nose from going under water, but that will only slow your momentum which in not conducive to wave-catching.

Lean forward but raise your chest so that your weight is just above the centre of the board. You should now be sliding down into the trough of the wave. The first phase of surfing will entail that you wait until you are in the flat water in front of the wave before you stand up. However, the ideal is to begin standing just as you feel the pull of the wave. Now you are ready to work on standing.

Standing Up

Learn to Surf - Standing Up - Step 1Learn to Surf - Standing Up - Step 2Learn to Surf - Standing Up - Step 3
Standing up on a surfboard can look very easy but once you place that surfboard on a moving, pitching, surge of swirling water where you must simultaneously leap from a prone position while weighting and unweighting left, right, front, and back just to keep from diving face forward, you'll soon realise a lot of practice will be needed! The place to start to stand is on the beach. Firstly you will need to know which foot will feel most natural to you in the forward position. The left foot forward is called natural stance and the right foot forward is a goofy foot stance. The way to find out which way you swing (!) is to stand up straight, close your eyes and ask a friend to gently nudge you forward, the foot that goes out first to steady yourself is your leading foot!

The motion from prone to standing is called the pop-up, which is basically a quick push up to your feet. Lie the board on the sand (watch the fins) and do a push-up, once your arms are at full extension, pull both knees toward your stomach and hop to your feet. If you practice this regularly it will help when in the water.

The next step is to get out there and do it. It will be best to start in the whitewater:

Step 1---Paddle for a wave and just as you feel the momentum of the surfboard flow faster than your paddling speed, you are ready to hop up.

Step 2---With your hands firmly grasping each rail push up quickly.

Step 3---Simultaneously, extend your arms completely and pull your knees quickly up to your chest. Be sure to keep your weight centred with just a little slant forward.

Step 4---Place your feet firmly on your board, one foot near the tail and one foot just above the midpoint of the board.

Step 5---Don't stand up completely erect. Keep a low centre of gravity by crouching down and focusing your weight on the midpoint of the board. Keep your arms out, your eyes looking forward and balance.

Angle on a Wave

Learn to Surf - Angle on a Wave
Once you've mastered paddling and standing, it's time to climb to the next level of waveriding. The real aim of any surfer is to angle along on the open face of the wave parallel with the beach, getting the longest possible ride with the greatest amount of speed. You should decide which direction (right or left) you will ride as you begin paddling for an oncoming wave. Understanding and predicting wave behaviour will come with time, but how you approach your drop-in will depend on the type of wave you are riding. If you are surfing a mushy, sloping wave, then you may want to start angling to the right of left even while you paddle which is a more effective use of the wave's energy and helps you to stay ahead of the whitewater.

However, on a more critical/hollow wave, a surfer must follow his/her dropline to the flat trough of the wave in order to avoid digging a rail or nose and thus falling during the drop. The technique of turning the surfboard is relatively simple. While keeping a low centre of gravity with legs bent at the knees, lightly lean your weight in the direction you choose and towards the wave face. This will push the rail into the water and create a keel effect, cutting into the water and directing the board in the direction you choose. On a longboard the principle is the same but you will need to use the rear section of your board to turn, if you lean whilst too far forward the rail will dig and its end of ride.

Follow these tips and you should soon be up and riding your first wave and life will never be the same again! Enjoy.

Today after classes

After a long day of work... better hang out with the waves...

Surf-Tourism: Fiji, the 'Jewel in the crown' - by surfersvillage.com

Surf-Travel

'Jewel in the crown'

Surfersvillage Global Surf News, 2 June, 2012 : - - What Brazil is to football, New Zealand to rugby union, Australia to rugby league, Cloudbreak Fiji is to surfing. Its like a religion. Making that one stop at Tavarua Island to surf the unique wave is a dream for the elite in the sport. Jon Roseman described it best on the eve of the opening of the Volcom Fiji Pro.
It is the jewel in the crown, he enthused. Cloudbreak is a world class wave known throughout the surfing world, so it only makes sense to bring the worlds best surfers here. Roseman, managing director of the Tavarua Island Resort, the fourth stop of 10 on the 2012 ASP World Championship, and the locals are bubbling with excitement with the Attorney-General Aiyaz Sayed- Khaiyum to officially open the event today.
This is seen as an opportunity for Fiji to show off so many aspects of the beauty that is Fiji and the true Fijian Bula spirit.

Surf event to boost tourism

Fiji Islands Hotel and Tourism Association president Dixon Seeto says the Volcom Fiji Pro will do wonders for the booming tourism industry because of the international media exposure generated by the event. The international awareness and attention an event of this magnitude will bring to the country will no doubt further boost our tourism numbers.
This is a very big event and the focus of international media on Fiji in the lead-up to the surf competition and during the event proper is invaluable in terms of the marketing and promotion of Fiji. This will highlight both our ability to host events of this nature and also broadcast Fiji as a quality holiday destination, he said.
Mr Seeto adds once in Fiji, first-time visitors will more than likely return to further explore other surf sites and have a holiday at one of many exotic locations in the country. People who may primarily come here for this major surf event could potentially return as tourists. This will definitely boost our tourist arrivals and Fiji should be proud that Tavarua was chosen to be a part of this worldwide event, he said.

Adriano de Souza Claims Rip Curl Pro Portugal - by surftotal.com

Adriano de Souza (BRA), 24, has taken out the Rip Curl Pro Portugal over Kelly Slater (USA), 39, in clean

three-to-five foot (1 – 1.5 metre) barrels at Supertubos today.

Event No. 9 of 11 on the 2011 ASP World Title Series, the Rip Curl Pro Portugal culminated in exciting fashion today as a feast of picturesque barrels closed out one of the most memorable events in ASP history.

De Souza tore through the field on the final day of competition, taking down Travis Logie (ZAF), 32, Michel Bourez (PYF), 25, and Bede Durbidge (AUS), 28, en route to his final clash with Slater. The young Brazilian opened up with a solid forehand barrel to secure a 9.00 out of a possible 10 and put pressure on the defending champion. Slater answered back with two solid scores of his own, but De Souza came back in the final minutes to hammer the nail in the coffin and secure the third elite tour win of his career.

“Kelly (Slater) has been my hero since I ever heard about surfing,” De Souza said. “He is a living legend and to be competing against him at this level is more than a dream come true. He has pushed me more than any other surfer and I owe him a lot. The waves have been incredible for this event. Thanks to Rip Curl for bringing us here and thanks to all the Portuguese who have supported me throughout the event.”

Today’s win vaults De Souza from 6th to 3rd on the ASP World Title rankings and into contention heading into the last two events of the year.
“I haven’t been as consistent as I would like to be this season but I have had two of the biggest results of my career here and in Brazil,” De Souza said. “It’s very special to win in these kinds of conditions. I just want to finish the year with some good results – I’m not thinking about the World Title.”

 Slater, reigning 10-time ASP World Champion, moved one step closer to clinching his 11th crown today. Should he finish 9th or better in the upcoming Rip Curl Pro Search San Francisco event (two heat wins), he will seal the deal.

 “It’s been an amazing event,” Slater said. “I can’t remember a time when we’ve had so many 9s and high 8s and we’ve all just got barreled off our heads for three days straight. It’s been pretty amazing. Unfortunately, there was really only that one good one in the Final and I made a priority mistake and let Adriano (de Souza) have it. It’s obviously a good result for me and it makes things harder on everyone else. Let’s hope for good conditions in San Francisco.”

Taj Burrow (AUS), 33, rampaged through the day’s affairs, claiming a Round 4 win before dispatching of red-hot rookie Julian Wilson (AUS), 22, in the Quarterfinals. Burrow then faced Slater in a heated Semifinal exchange. The Western Australian pulled out to an early lead as both tube specialists went blow for blow in the opening exchanges. However, a last-minute Perfect 10 from the champ would seal the deal and send Burrow home with an Equal 3rd.
“What do you say after that?” Burrow said. “It was another one of those situations where we were both getting good waves. I broke my board and was paddling out when he dropped in on that left – first left of the heat – and I knew it was a 10 straight away. I’m still a bit blown away. It’s been an amazing event though. Some of the best waves I’ve ever surfed.”

 Bede Durbidge (AUS), 28, matched his best result of the season today, besting John John Florence (HAW), 19, and Joel Parkinson (AUS), 30, en route to his Equal 3rd place finish. Despite having his run halted by De Souza in the Semifinals, today’s result moves Durbidge from 18th to 15th on the ASP World Title rankings and that much closer to cracking the Top 10.

 “It’s been a big event for me here so I can’t be upset with losing there,” Durbidge said. “We’ve had incredible waves throughout the event and I just didn’t have the rhythm there in the Semifinal. It’s a big result for me and hopefully that turns my year around heading into the last two events.”

 Owen Wright (AUS), 21, current No. 2 on the ASP World Title rankings, was eliminated this morning in a hard-fought Round 3 battle against ASP Dream Tour newcomer John John Florence (HAW), 19. Despite posting an excellent 16.96 out of a possible 20, Wright was unable to overcome the preternatural onslaught from the young Hawaiian.

“When I saw John John (Florence) moving through the draw, I knew there was a real possibility of meeting him early on,” Wright said. “He’s obviously very dangerous in these conditions as it resembles him home at Pipeline. That said, I put together a good heat I think so I can hold my head up. I just didn’t come out on top in this instance.”

 Wright’s early ousting from the Rip Curl Pro Portugal doesn’t bode well for his 2011 ASP World Title campaign as reigning 10-time ASP World Champion Kelly Slater (USA), 39, moves closer to clinching the crown. However, the young Australian remains positive in his approach to the remainder of the season.

 “I’m going to go home before San Francisco and recharge,” Wright said. “There are still two events to go and I really want to finish my year strong.”

 Highlights from the Rip Curl Pro Portugal will be available via http://live.ripcurl.com/

 Thanks to our broadcast partners at FUEL TV in Australia and Portugal, Ma Chaine Sport in France, Luxembourg, Belgium, Switzerland and Africa as well as ESPN in Brazil.

The next stop on the 2011 ASP World Title season will be the Rip Curl Pro Search San Francisco from November 1 – 12, 2011.

 For additional information log on to http://www.aspworldtour.com/

RIP CURL PRO PORTUGAL REMAINING FINAL RESULTS:
 1 – Adriano de Souza (BRA) 15.67
 2 – Kelly Slater (USA) 14.73



RIP CURL PRO PORTUGAL REMAINING SEMIFINAL RESULTS:
 SF 1: Kelly Slater (USA) 19.50 def. Taj Burrow (AUS) 16.87
 SF 2: Adriano de Souza (BRA) 13.83 def. Bede Durbidge (AUS) 12.03



RIP CURL PRO PORTUGAL REMAINING QUARTERFINAL RESULTS:
 QF 1: Taj Burrow (AUS) 17.94 def. Julian Wilson (AUS) 17.50
 QF 2: Kelly Slater (USA) 18.70 def. Heitor Alves (BRA) 7.67
 QF 3: Adriano de Souza (BRA) 17.60 def. Michel Bourez (PYF) 17.53
 QF 4: Bede Durbidge (AUS) 17.10 def. Joel Parkinson (AUS) 16.60



RIP CURL PRO PORTUGAL REMAINING HEAT 5 RESULTS:
 Heat 1: Julian Wilson (AUS) 6.83 def. Chris Davidson (AUS) 3.50
 Heat 2: Heitor Alves (BRA) 15.40 def. Damien Hobgood (USA) 13.74
 Heat 3: Michel Bourez (PYF) 18.93 def. Fredrick Patacchia (HAW) 17.96
 Heat 4: Bede Durbidge (AUS) 17.44 def. John John Florence (HAW) 17.06



RIP CURL PRO PORTUGAL REMAINING ROUND 4 RESULTS:
 Heat 1: Taj Burrow (AUS) 17.13, Julian Wilson (AUS) 15.70, Damien Hobgood (USA) 14.10
 Heat 2: Kelly Slater (USA) 19.30, Heitor Alves (BRA) 17.20, Chris Davidson (AUS) 13.40
 Heat 3: Adriano de Souza (BRA) 15.30, Fredrick Patacchia (HAW) 14.64, Bede Durbidge (AUS) 11.67
 Heat 4: Joel Parkinson (AUS) 18.00, John John Florence (HAW) 17.84, Michel Bourez (PYF) 16.10



RIP CURL PRO PORTUGAL REMAINING ROUND 3 RESULTS:
 Heat 9: Adriano de Souza (BRA) 11.60 def. Travis Logie (ZAF) 8.10
 Heat 10: Joel Parkinson (AUS) 13.56 def. Dusty Payne (HAW) 12.30
 Heat 11: Michel Bourez (PYF) 16.27 def. Matt Wilkinson (AUS) 14.54
 Heat 12: John John Florence (HAW) 17.33 def. Owen Wright (AUS) 16.96



ASP WORLD TITLE TOP 5 (after Rip Curl Pro Portugal)
 1. Kelly Slater (USA) 58,150 pts
 2. Owen Wright (AUS) 45,650 pts
 3. Adriano de Souza (BRA) 42,450 pts
 4. Joel Parkinson (AUS) 41,100 pts
 5. Taj Burrow (AUS) 40,950 pts

source:ASP

Kelly Slater to get key to Surf City - by surftotal.com

 Huntington Beach announced they'll be giving Slater the key to honor his contribution to the sport, and the city, Orange County Register says.
  The Mayor, Joe Carchio, will hand over the key to Surf City.  It's actually Slater's second "Key to the City" honor he's received in O.C., with San Clemente – where he is said to have a home -  giving him one in 2008.

 The ceremony will go down at 6 p.m. June 21 during Surf City Nights in front of Jack's Surfboards, so if you've ever wanted to see the world's best competitive surfer up close and personal, here's your chance.

 Slater is the most recognized and celebrity-like surfer in the world, with mobs surrounding him everywhere he goes.

 The event will be MC'd by Peter Townend, surfing's first world champion, at Main St. and Pacific Coast Highway.

According to Slater ""Huntington has been a very big part of my growing up. I spent endless hours as a teenager surfing the north side throughout the summer and south side during events, said Slater. "I used to change in the back of chuck dent surf shop and run through all the shops with my friends and my brother in between surfs. I had my first chance to surf against my hero, Tom Curren, at age 13 or 14 here in the Katin event. The city is a big part of surfing and so much of its history. I'm honored to be recognized here amongst so many of surfing's greats over the years."

 The city of Huntington Beach said it's not just his surfing that gets him the honor, but his commitment to the environment.

source:THE ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER

Shark warning at Plettenberg - by surftotal.com

The National Sea Rescue Institute issued a warning to bathers surfers and paddlers after a great white shark was spotted along the Plettenberg Bay coastline a day ago, Times Live says.

 Spokesman Craig Lambinon said 33-year-old surfer Clinton Nelson from Kommetjie had his surfboard nudged three to four times by a shark while he and a friend were surfing at The Wreck, a popular surf spot at the end of Robberg Beach, on Sunday afternoon.

 According to Nelson and his friend Matthew Luckman, 29, they were in the surf about 30 metres off-shore waiting for waves when what appeared to be a four to five metre shark appeared and nudged Nelson's surf board, said Lambinon.

 "It appeared to Matthew that the surf board was being bumped or pushed left and right. Both men caught the next small wave to shore and neither of the two men were injured," he said.

 They reported the incident to sea rescue authorities.

 NSRI Plettenberg Bay station commander, Ray Farnha, confirmed that a white shark was spotted in the area during a recent sea rescue operations.

Lambinon encouraged anyone intending to swim, surf or paddle along the Plettenberg Bay stretch of coastline to be cautious.



source:Times Live