Saturday, June 9, 2012

How to Surf - by http://www.extremehorizon.com/surf-shop/learn_to_surf.html

 

Learn How To Surf


Learning how to surf can be a life changing experience. Surfers enjoy the rush of dropping into a glassy wave, flying along the wave face, more often than not in some of the most exotic and exiting places on earth. If that sounds appealing read our learn to surf guide below which will provide all of the basics you'll need to know before taking your first surf lesson or hiring your first surfboard. If you learn how to surf correctly you'll progress much more rapidly from a surf school beginner to becoming a real surfer.
If you've seen our essential surf equipment guide page, you should have a good idea on which surfboard is ideal to learn to surf on and we will hopefully have given you the initial understanding on what is the right sized soft board, pop out or mal surfboard with which to take your first steps into becoming a surfer.

Choose the Right Spot

Surf breaks vary enormously and if you try to learn at the wrong one it can slow down the learning process no end, possibly get you hurt and label you as a nuisance to other surfers. The answer is to forget reef breaks (surf breaking over, rock, coral etc) and heavy, hollow beach breaks and pick a beach with an easy, spilling, mushy break wave in the 2-4ft range. It may not be glamorous but it will be the best place to start. Also try and find a spot with no crowds- battling with hundreds of other beginners and more experienced surfers is not the way to go. If you have a little space it will be easier to learn.

Paddling

Learn to Surf - Paddling
You have your new surfboard under your arm and you've chosen a mushy, uncrowded spot for a surf, it's now time to paddle out! Paddling is an essential surfing skill so lots of practice at this will bring its rewards. Start in small waves and if possible paddle out when there is a lull in the waves. It's best to walk your board out until you are in waist deep water, then lay your body on the deck of your surfboard. On a shortboard keep your weight centred on the middle of the board and on a longboard position yourself so the nose is around 1inch out of the water. The trick is to find the optimum trim position for the board which will provide least resistance when paddling. Once you feel the board gliding through the water with ease you'll have found the ideal trim, so remember your position and stick with it.

Start to paddle using a crawl stroke with your arms, using cupped hands to increase the pull. If you hit bumpy water or "chop", lift your chest slightly and lessen your weight on the board so the nose and rails don't go under. Once you have learnt to balance your right and left sides, head, and legs, paddle your board out to the lineup you're on the way!

Duck Diving

Learn to Surf - Duck DivingLearn to Surf - Duck Divers
Duck-diving is a technique to allow you to pass under breaking waves when paddling out, rather than getting hammered by each breaking wave. Duck-diving applies to shortboards which are smaller and lighter, for longboards there are a number of techniques used to achieve the same result. To duck-dive a shortboard, try to have as much paddling speed as possible when approaching the wave. At about two feet before making contact with the white water, grab both rails (edges of the surfboard) halfway between the nose and midpoint of your board. Push all your upper body weight onto your hands and arms until you feel the nose begin to go under. Point your head down and let your body follow. Once your body is just below the surface, bend your front leg and use that knee to push the tail under the wave. Your momentum should thrust you under the quickly passing wave and only require you to be under water for a short time. As the wave passes let the flotation of your board lift you to the surface. Now you have the skill to paddle to the lineup or to the next wave and duck under it.

For paddling out on a longboard there are a few ways of tackling the breaking waves: The slice and duck, Eskimo roll, push-ups and the shoot and scoot. On smaller waves the push-up technique is probably best. Just push up your chest and the wave will pass under your body and over the board. The shoot and scoot method is where you sit at the back of your board and sink the tail, grabbing the rails around the centre of the board so it raises above the oncoming wave. Don't grab the surfboard at the nose or allow the nose to raise too much as you'll flip the board. The Eskimo roll is the old school method of getting out back.

It's simply a matter of grabbing the board and rolling it over so that the wave passes over the top of you. This is maybe not the most effective method as there is a chance you can get drilled by the wave and pushed further back to shore. The final method is the slice and duck which is executed by pushing down on one side of the surfboard so that it slices/sinks into the water, at the same time push down on the deck so that the board nose ducks under the water in the same way as a duck dive.

Catching a Wave

Learn to Surf - Catching a Wave Learn to Surf - First Wave
To begin with, rather than paddling straight out the back into the line up, it's best to catch a few broken whitewater waves in shallower water. You should have your ideal trim/paddling position at this stage, so point your board directly towards the beach and as the whitewater approaches paddle towards shore. The wave should pick you up and push you forward which is an unmistakable feeling, however if your board pearls or nosedives you have set off positioned too far forward on the board, likewise if the wave passes under you are positioned too far back on the board.

It's fun to catch and ride a few to the beach whilst still laying down to get the feeling of the wave, after that it's time to stand up which we will go onto in the next section. Once you have the hang of catching white water it's time to use those paddling skills and get out into the lineup to catch the unbroken waves which is what surfing is all about. Once in the lineup, past where the waves are breaking, sit up and straddle your board (you might want to practice the art of sitting on your board as it takes a little time to find your balance). Always face out to sea until you are ready to catch a wave. Practice swinging the nose of the board left or right so that you can easily turn around to catch an oncoming wave. Pick a wave that has not broken and be sure to sit far enough out among the sloping swells, not where the waves are standing up straight.

As a wave approaches, turn the nose of your board toward the beach, lay down and begin paddling. As you feel the wave lift you and your board, paddle as hard as you can and lean your weight forward. The natural tendency is to lean back to keep the nose from going under water, but that will only slow your momentum which in not conducive to wave-catching.

Lean forward but raise your chest so that your weight is just above the centre of the board. You should now be sliding down into the trough of the wave. The first phase of surfing will entail that you wait until you are in the flat water in front of the wave before you stand up. However, the ideal is to begin standing just as you feel the pull of the wave. Now you are ready to work on standing.

Standing Up

Learn to Surf - Standing Up - Step 1Learn to Surf - Standing Up - Step 2Learn to Surf - Standing Up - Step 3
Standing up on a surfboard can look very easy but once you place that surfboard on a moving, pitching, surge of swirling water where you must simultaneously leap from a prone position while weighting and unweighting left, right, front, and back just to keep from diving face forward, you'll soon realise a lot of practice will be needed! The place to start to stand is on the beach. Firstly you will need to know which foot will feel most natural to you in the forward position. The left foot forward is called natural stance and the right foot forward is a goofy foot stance. The way to find out which way you swing (!) is to stand up straight, close your eyes and ask a friend to gently nudge you forward, the foot that goes out first to steady yourself is your leading foot!

The motion from prone to standing is called the pop-up, which is basically a quick push up to your feet. Lie the board on the sand (watch the fins) and do a push-up, once your arms are at full extension, pull both knees toward your stomach and hop to your feet. If you practice this regularly it will help when in the water.

The next step is to get out there and do it. It will be best to start in the whitewater:

Step 1---Paddle for a wave and just as you feel the momentum of the surfboard flow faster than your paddling speed, you are ready to hop up.

Step 2---With your hands firmly grasping each rail push up quickly.

Step 3---Simultaneously, extend your arms completely and pull your knees quickly up to your chest. Be sure to keep your weight centred with just a little slant forward.

Step 4---Place your feet firmly on your board, one foot near the tail and one foot just above the midpoint of the board.

Step 5---Don't stand up completely erect. Keep a low centre of gravity by crouching down and focusing your weight on the midpoint of the board. Keep your arms out, your eyes looking forward and balance.

Angle on a Wave

Learn to Surf - Angle on a Wave
Once you've mastered paddling and standing, it's time to climb to the next level of waveriding. The real aim of any surfer is to angle along on the open face of the wave parallel with the beach, getting the longest possible ride with the greatest amount of speed. You should decide which direction (right or left) you will ride as you begin paddling for an oncoming wave. Understanding and predicting wave behaviour will come with time, but how you approach your drop-in will depend on the type of wave you are riding. If you are surfing a mushy, sloping wave, then you may want to start angling to the right of left even while you paddle which is a more effective use of the wave's energy and helps you to stay ahead of the whitewater.

However, on a more critical/hollow wave, a surfer must follow his/her dropline to the flat trough of the wave in order to avoid digging a rail or nose and thus falling during the drop. The technique of turning the surfboard is relatively simple. While keeping a low centre of gravity with legs bent at the knees, lightly lean your weight in the direction you choose and towards the wave face. This will push the rail into the water and create a keel effect, cutting into the water and directing the board in the direction you choose. On a longboard the principle is the same but you will need to use the rear section of your board to turn, if you lean whilst too far forward the rail will dig and its end of ride.

Follow these tips and you should soon be up and riding your first wave and life will never be the same again! Enjoy.

Today after classes

After a long day of work... better hang out with the waves...

Surf-Tourism: Fiji, the 'Jewel in the crown' - by surfersvillage.com

Surf-Travel

'Jewel in the crown'

Surfersvillage Global Surf News, 2 June, 2012 : - - What Brazil is to football, New Zealand to rugby union, Australia to rugby league, Cloudbreak Fiji is to surfing. Its like a religion. Making that one stop at Tavarua Island to surf the unique wave is a dream for the elite in the sport. Jon Roseman described it best on the eve of the opening of the Volcom Fiji Pro.
It is the jewel in the crown, he enthused. Cloudbreak is a world class wave known throughout the surfing world, so it only makes sense to bring the worlds best surfers here. Roseman, managing director of the Tavarua Island Resort, the fourth stop of 10 on the 2012 ASP World Championship, and the locals are bubbling with excitement with the Attorney-General Aiyaz Sayed- Khaiyum to officially open the event today.
This is seen as an opportunity for Fiji to show off so many aspects of the beauty that is Fiji and the true Fijian Bula spirit.

Surf event to boost tourism

Fiji Islands Hotel and Tourism Association president Dixon Seeto says the Volcom Fiji Pro will do wonders for the booming tourism industry because of the international media exposure generated by the event. The international awareness and attention an event of this magnitude will bring to the country will no doubt further boost our tourism numbers.
This is a very big event and the focus of international media on Fiji in the lead-up to the surf competition and during the event proper is invaluable in terms of the marketing and promotion of Fiji. This will highlight both our ability to host events of this nature and also broadcast Fiji as a quality holiday destination, he said.
Mr Seeto adds once in Fiji, first-time visitors will more than likely return to further explore other surf sites and have a holiday at one of many exotic locations in the country. People who may primarily come here for this major surf event could potentially return as tourists. This will definitely boost our tourist arrivals and Fiji should be proud that Tavarua was chosen to be a part of this worldwide event, he said.

Adriano de Souza Claims Rip Curl Pro Portugal - by surftotal.com

Adriano de Souza (BRA), 24, has taken out the Rip Curl Pro Portugal over Kelly Slater (USA), 39, in clean

three-to-five foot (1 – 1.5 metre) barrels at Supertubos today.

Event No. 9 of 11 on the 2011 ASP World Title Series, the Rip Curl Pro Portugal culminated in exciting fashion today as a feast of picturesque barrels closed out one of the most memorable events in ASP history.

De Souza tore through the field on the final day of competition, taking down Travis Logie (ZAF), 32, Michel Bourez (PYF), 25, and Bede Durbidge (AUS), 28, en route to his final clash with Slater. The young Brazilian opened up with a solid forehand barrel to secure a 9.00 out of a possible 10 and put pressure on the defending champion. Slater answered back with two solid scores of his own, but De Souza came back in the final minutes to hammer the nail in the coffin and secure the third elite tour win of his career.

“Kelly (Slater) has been my hero since I ever heard about surfing,” De Souza said. “He is a living legend and to be competing against him at this level is more than a dream come true. He has pushed me more than any other surfer and I owe him a lot. The waves have been incredible for this event. Thanks to Rip Curl for bringing us here and thanks to all the Portuguese who have supported me throughout the event.”

Today’s win vaults De Souza from 6th to 3rd on the ASP World Title rankings and into contention heading into the last two events of the year.
“I haven’t been as consistent as I would like to be this season but I have had two of the biggest results of my career here and in Brazil,” De Souza said. “It’s very special to win in these kinds of conditions. I just want to finish the year with some good results – I’m not thinking about the World Title.”

 Slater, reigning 10-time ASP World Champion, moved one step closer to clinching his 11th crown today. Should he finish 9th or better in the upcoming Rip Curl Pro Search San Francisco event (two heat wins), he will seal the deal.

 “It’s been an amazing event,” Slater said. “I can’t remember a time when we’ve had so many 9s and high 8s and we’ve all just got barreled off our heads for three days straight. It’s been pretty amazing. Unfortunately, there was really only that one good one in the Final and I made a priority mistake and let Adriano (de Souza) have it. It’s obviously a good result for me and it makes things harder on everyone else. Let’s hope for good conditions in San Francisco.”

Taj Burrow (AUS), 33, rampaged through the day’s affairs, claiming a Round 4 win before dispatching of red-hot rookie Julian Wilson (AUS), 22, in the Quarterfinals. Burrow then faced Slater in a heated Semifinal exchange. The Western Australian pulled out to an early lead as both tube specialists went blow for blow in the opening exchanges. However, a last-minute Perfect 10 from the champ would seal the deal and send Burrow home with an Equal 3rd.
“What do you say after that?” Burrow said. “It was another one of those situations where we were both getting good waves. I broke my board and was paddling out when he dropped in on that left – first left of the heat – and I knew it was a 10 straight away. I’m still a bit blown away. It’s been an amazing event though. Some of the best waves I’ve ever surfed.”

 Bede Durbidge (AUS), 28, matched his best result of the season today, besting John John Florence (HAW), 19, and Joel Parkinson (AUS), 30, en route to his Equal 3rd place finish. Despite having his run halted by De Souza in the Semifinals, today’s result moves Durbidge from 18th to 15th on the ASP World Title rankings and that much closer to cracking the Top 10.

 “It’s been a big event for me here so I can’t be upset with losing there,” Durbidge said. “We’ve had incredible waves throughout the event and I just didn’t have the rhythm there in the Semifinal. It’s a big result for me and hopefully that turns my year around heading into the last two events.”

 Owen Wright (AUS), 21, current No. 2 on the ASP World Title rankings, was eliminated this morning in a hard-fought Round 3 battle against ASP Dream Tour newcomer John John Florence (HAW), 19. Despite posting an excellent 16.96 out of a possible 20, Wright was unable to overcome the preternatural onslaught from the young Hawaiian.

“When I saw John John (Florence) moving through the draw, I knew there was a real possibility of meeting him early on,” Wright said. “He’s obviously very dangerous in these conditions as it resembles him home at Pipeline. That said, I put together a good heat I think so I can hold my head up. I just didn’t come out on top in this instance.”

 Wright’s early ousting from the Rip Curl Pro Portugal doesn’t bode well for his 2011 ASP World Title campaign as reigning 10-time ASP World Champion Kelly Slater (USA), 39, moves closer to clinching the crown. However, the young Australian remains positive in his approach to the remainder of the season.

 “I’m going to go home before San Francisco and recharge,” Wright said. “There are still two events to go and I really want to finish my year strong.”

 Highlights from the Rip Curl Pro Portugal will be available via http://live.ripcurl.com/

 Thanks to our broadcast partners at FUEL TV in Australia and Portugal, Ma Chaine Sport in France, Luxembourg, Belgium, Switzerland and Africa as well as ESPN in Brazil.

The next stop on the 2011 ASP World Title season will be the Rip Curl Pro Search San Francisco from November 1 – 12, 2011.

 For additional information log on to http://www.aspworldtour.com/

RIP CURL PRO PORTUGAL REMAINING FINAL RESULTS:
 1 – Adriano de Souza (BRA) 15.67
 2 – Kelly Slater (USA) 14.73



RIP CURL PRO PORTUGAL REMAINING SEMIFINAL RESULTS:
 SF 1: Kelly Slater (USA) 19.50 def. Taj Burrow (AUS) 16.87
 SF 2: Adriano de Souza (BRA) 13.83 def. Bede Durbidge (AUS) 12.03



RIP CURL PRO PORTUGAL REMAINING QUARTERFINAL RESULTS:
 QF 1: Taj Burrow (AUS) 17.94 def. Julian Wilson (AUS) 17.50
 QF 2: Kelly Slater (USA) 18.70 def. Heitor Alves (BRA) 7.67
 QF 3: Adriano de Souza (BRA) 17.60 def. Michel Bourez (PYF) 17.53
 QF 4: Bede Durbidge (AUS) 17.10 def. Joel Parkinson (AUS) 16.60



RIP CURL PRO PORTUGAL REMAINING HEAT 5 RESULTS:
 Heat 1: Julian Wilson (AUS) 6.83 def. Chris Davidson (AUS) 3.50
 Heat 2: Heitor Alves (BRA) 15.40 def. Damien Hobgood (USA) 13.74
 Heat 3: Michel Bourez (PYF) 18.93 def. Fredrick Patacchia (HAW) 17.96
 Heat 4: Bede Durbidge (AUS) 17.44 def. John John Florence (HAW) 17.06



RIP CURL PRO PORTUGAL REMAINING ROUND 4 RESULTS:
 Heat 1: Taj Burrow (AUS) 17.13, Julian Wilson (AUS) 15.70, Damien Hobgood (USA) 14.10
 Heat 2: Kelly Slater (USA) 19.30, Heitor Alves (BRA) 17.20, Chris Davidson (AUS) 13.40
 Heat 3: Adriano de Souza (BRA) 15.30, Fredrick Patacchia (HAW) 14.64, Bede Durbidge (AUS) 11.67
 Heat 4: Joel Parkinson (AUS) 18.00, John John Florence (HAW) 17.84, Michel Bourez (PYF) 16.10



RIP CURL PRO PORTUGAL REMAINING ROUND 3 RESULTS:
 Heat 9: Adriano de Souza (BRA) 11.60 def. Travis Logie (ZAF) 8.10
 Heat 10: Joel Parkinson (AUS) 13.56 def. Dusty Payne (HAW) 12.30
 Heat 11: Michel Bourez (PYF) 16.27 def. Matt Wilkinson (AUS) 14.54
 Heat 12: John John Florence (HAW) 17.33 def. Owen Wright (AUS) 16.96



ASP WORLD TITLE TOP 5 (after Rip Curl Pro Portugal)
 1. Kelly Slater (USA) 58,150 pts
 2. Owen Wright (AUS) 45,650 pts
 3. Adriano de Souza (BRA) 42,450 pts
 4. Joel Parkinson (AUS) 41,100 pts
 5. Taj Burrow (AUS) 40,950 pts

source:ASP

Kelly Slater to get key to Surf City - by surftotal.com

 Huntington Beach announced they'll be giving Slater the key to honor his contribution to the sport, and the city, Orange County Register says.
  The Mayor, Joe Carchio, will hand over the key to Surf City.  It's actually Slater's second "Key to the City" honor he's received in O.C., with San Clemente – where he is said to have a home -  giving him one in 2008.

 The ceremony will go down at 6 p.m. June 21 during Surf City Nights in front of Jack's Surfboards, so if you've ever wanted to see the world's best competitive surfer up close and personal, here's your chance.

 Slater is the most recognized and celebrity-like surfer in the world, with mobs surrounding him everywhere he goes.

 The event will be MC'd by Peter Townend, surfing's first world champion, at Main St. and Pacific Coast Highway.

According to Slater ""Huntington has been a very big part of my growing up. I spent endless hours as a teenager surfing the north side throughout the summer and south side during events, said Slater. "I used to change in the back of chuck dent surf shop and run through all the shops with my friends and my brother in between surfs. I had my first chance to surf against my hero, Tom Curren, at age 13 or 14 here in the Katin event. The city is a big part of surfing and so much of its history. I'm honored to be recognized here amongst so many of surfing's greats over the years."

 The city of Huntington Beach said it's not just his surfing that gets him the honor, but his commitment to the environment.

source:THE ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER

Shark warning at Plettenberg - by surftotal.com

The National Sea Rescue Institute issued a warning to bathers surfers and paddlers after a great white shark was spotted along the Plettenberg Bay coastline a day ago, Times Live says.

 Spokesman Craig Lambinon said 33-year-old surfer Clinton Nelson from Kommetjie had his surfboard nudged three to four times by a shark while he and a friend were surfing at The Wreck, a popular surf spot at the end of Robberg Beach, on Sunday afternoon.

 According to Nelson and his friend Matthew Luckman, 29, they were in the surf about 30 metres off-shore waiting for waves when what appeared to be a four to five metre shark appeared and nudged Nelson's surf board, said Lambinon.

 "It appeared to Matthew that the surf board was being bumped or pushed left and right. Both men caught the next small wave to shore and neither of the two men were injured," he said.

 They reported the incident to sea rescue authorities.

 NSRI Plettenberg Bay station commander, Ray Farnha, confirmed that a white shark was spotted in the area during a recent sea rescue operations.

Lambinon encouraged anyone intending to swim, surf or paddle along the Plettenberg Bay stretch of coastline to be cautious.



source:Times Live

Epic Waves at Rip Curl’s 2011GromSearch Series - surftotal.com

The scenic beachside town of Batu Karas in West Java was ablaze with action on Sunday as right on plan the swell kicked up and provided the perfect arena for the Java groms to fire up the first event of the 2011 Rip Curl GromSearch season.
47 groms, some from as far away Cimaja (a 12 hour drive by car) as well as from nearby towns Pangandaran, Cilicap, and Karang Papak gathered at the beach in Batu Karas for a fun day of surfing competition, but with a serious prize at stake for the two top finalists in the Under 16 Division…The coveted “Ticket to Bali”.

 In addition to trophies, prestige and prizes from Rip Curl, ESS, and Skullcandy for all the finalists, the two best surfing groms in the Under 16 Division received an all expense paid trip to Bali this October where they will compete with the other GromSearch event finalists in the National GromSearch Finals at Kuta Beach. The grand prize for the overall winner of the National Finals is a trip to the Rip Curl GromSearch World Finals at Bells Beach in Australia.

 With visions of trips to Bali and Australia firmly in their minds, the starting horn called the first heat of the Under 16 groms into action at 7:30 am at the spot locally known as “the Reef”, with the rising tide conditions providing glassy and perfectly lined up 2-3 foot waves for the 23 frothing youngsters. They aggressively went on the attack with deep bottom turns, big hits to the lip, and going for aerials whenever possible.
By 10:30 the semi-finals were finished and the four finalists decided, but first the Under 14 groms had to have their turn.

 The highlight of the Under 14 Division was the 4th heat, which had the only two girls groms competing, 9 year old Nika and 12 year old Bela both from Cimaja, as well as tiny Batu Karas local 9 year old Cece. MC Elan Jaelani got the crowd all fired up with his commentary, and soon everybody was shouting encouragement and cheering from the beach every time the groms caught a wave. It was great fun.

 On the serious side, Diki, Muldi, Yoga, and Erik showed off their skills to the judging panel led by Head Judge Arya Subyakto and included Rip Curl team riders Pepen Hendrik and Wayan “Gobleg” Suyadnya from Bali, as well as Batu Karas locals Husni Ridwan, Giang, and Lili leading up to their final showdown.

 After taking a short break for a 20 minute Expression Session, where 10 non-grom contestants were given the chance to win Skullcandy and ESS gear for having the Best Wave and Best Trick, it was down to the business end…the Finals.

The low tide and slight cross-shore wind didn’t faze the Under 14 Finalists as the waves were still head high for them. At the final horn it was Diki using his local knowledge to find the best waves and post the highest scores to nab a first place finish over Muldi from Karang Papak.

 The Under 16 finalists were initially challenged by a lull in the waves during their 20 final, which only increased the tension. But it soon became clear that Deden and Dian were in a tight battle for the win, with 13-year-old Dian aggressively attacking each wave and going for the big maneuvers. Deden was more selective, trying to find the best wave before blasting his patented big turns. In the end, Dian had racked the most points and proved to the judges that he was the most committed in his surfing, and was all smiles after being presented with his prizes and Ticket to Bali.

“I really wanted to win, but didn’t know if I could against the older guys. I just had to try my best. Now I will be practicing hard because I want to become the champion when I go to the finals in Bali!” he said.

 In addition to the surfing competition, the non-surfing kids were giving a chance to win some prizes too. Rip Curl Event Manager Dhanny called all the kids together for a trash gathering competition, explaining the importance of having a clean beach and properly disposing of their trash. Earlier in the day everyone on the beach had been given a booklet from GUS, an environmental non-profit company in Bali, on how to care for their environment.

 I’m really happy to see the kids so eager to cooperate and learn about caring for beach and the environment, and also want to thank the local Bata Karas crew for making this such a great GromSearch event. We had great waves, saw some great surfing and had a create crowd, so it was just a super day. The 2011 GromSearch is off to a great start!” he said at the end of the day.

 Head Judge Arya Subyakto was very pleased the quality of the grom surfing he had seen at Batu Karas, saying, “We saw some really good surfing from these groms here today and it was clear that the level is rising all the time. I’ve been spending a bit of time around here and know everyone was really excited to be hosting this event. It’s a great location for a GromSearch and I was stoked to be here and help out.”

At each ISC Junior event, Coca-Cola Amatil Indonesia asks the judging crew to select the grom who shows the greatest potential but lacks the proper equipment and gives them a custom made surfboard. The lucky grom at the Batu Karas GromSearch even was Deni Mencos. Congratulations Deni!

 Next month the Rip Curl GromSearch team will be heading to the island of Lombok for the 2nd event of the series, which will take place on the 20 of March at Kuta Lombok. For more information see http://www.ripcurl.com/ and http://www.isctour.com/.

 The Rip Curl GromSearch 2011 series is sponsored by ESS (Eat Sleep Surf), Skullcandy, TRAX, GUS, Magic Wave and OZ101.FM Radio Bali.

 The Rip Curl GromSearch series is sanctioned by the Coca-Cola Indonesian Surfing Championship Tour; therefore all contestants receive ISC Junior Division Championship points at each event. The Under 16 year old surfer with the most points accumulated through all junior events at the end of the year will become the Indonesian Junior Surfing Champion.

Taj Burrow wins Breaka Burleigh Pro - by surftotal.com

Taj Burrow won his second consecutive Association of Surfing Professionals (ASP) 4-Star Breaka Burleigh Pro held in wind affected, but good high performance 1m (3 feet) surf at Burleigh Heads today.

The fast, talented number 1 seed and ASP World No. 3 rated surfer displayed a full repertoire of moves including his renown aerial talents to seal today’s win.

 Burrow lead for most of the 40 minute final, building his scores throughout and closing on a 7.57 and 7.9 for a final two wave tally of 15.47 but was challenged late when Joel Parkinson scored the highest single wave of the final, an excellent 8.23.

It left Parkinson chasing a 7.24 to take the win but he was unable to find a second decent wave in the final minutes.

 “Great to win back-to-back here at Burleigh – Parko came hard at me near the end which made for a tight final and it’s always good to win a quality final like that – I certainly hope history can repeat and I follow up next week at the Quiksilver Pro – I’ll take that for sure,” said Burrow.



“Burleigh’s an exciting wave, even small like today, its high performance and you can really surf these waves and score – it’s been another amazing event.”



Parkinson was satisfied with his result today but also disappointed not to take the win.

 “It has been a great warm up for all of us but you know, when you’re in a final with guys like Taj and Bede you really want to win and I was out there chasing the win – I needed a decent final ride and it didn’t happen but all up, a great event, Taj was always going to be the man to beat in conditions like that,” said Parkinson.
 Bede Durbidge placed third in today’s final and all three top placed surfers look ready for the opening event to the 2011 ASP World Title Tour – next week’s Quiksilver Pro.

 Once again, spectators relished the return of professional surfing to its spiritual home of Burleigh Heads and organisers are expecting an even bigger 2012.

Joy Monahan is the new Women’s World Longboard Champion - by surfertoday.com

Joy Monahan (Oahu, HAW), 22, became the 2008 Association of Surfing Professionals (ASP) Women’s World Longboard Champion today after winning the Roxy Jam event at La Cote des Basques in Biarritz. Monahan, who defeated runner-up Chelsea Williams (Gold Coast, AUS) in an exciting 30-minute final, posted a solid 14.10 point heat tally (out of a possible 20) to secure her first world crown in front of a cheering crowd.

Monahan, who placed 9th in 2006 and 5th in 2007, stepped up this week to seize the prestigious Roxy ASP Women’s World Championships and become the first Hawaiian female World Longboard Champion.

"I am super stoked, I cannot believe I won the championship", Monahan said. "Chelsea is one of the best surfers in the world and it was one of the most difficult heats to win. I got good waves and was very focused for the win."

Monahan, who defeated reigning ASP Women’s World Longboard Champion Jennifer Smith (USA) in Semifinal No. 1, was unstoppable in the last heat of the event putting together strong combinations of classical turns and modern style re-entries in the two foot (0.5 meter) contestable conditions.
"I was very surprised to defeat Jennifer (Smith) in the semi-finals", Monahan said. "I had a great week in Biarritz and it ends up perfectly. It is like a dream coming true and it is great to bring this world title home. So stoked."

With Carissa Moore (HAW) winning the ASP Grade-2 Pro Junior and Joy Monahan (HAW) the Roxy ASP Women’s World Longboard Championships, Hawaiians dominated the 2008 Roxy Jam and will be back next year to defend their respective titles.

Chelsea Williams (AUS), 22, who was a favorite towards a possible ASP World title in Biarritz, finishes runner-up of the 2008 edition and betters her 2007 equal 3rd. Williams, who was the last Australian representative in the event, was a standout throughout the Roxy ASP WWLC  and posted two of the best three heat scores of the event including an impressive 15.00 point result to defeat Leah Dawson (USA).

"I  won most of the heat, but Joy got two good ones in the dying seconds", Williams said. "I tried to take the bigger waves at the very end but it was not enough. I am still happy with my result and hope I can do better next year."

Jennifer Smith (Ca, USA), reigning ASP Women’s World Longboard Champion, was stopped in the Semifinals by Monahan, forgetting her second consecutive title hopes. Smith, who was one of the event’s top scorers with a solid 14.75 point heat tally (out of a possible 20) obtained in Round 4, was not able to counter Monahan’s assault.

"I guess I cannot win everything but I definitely enjoyed this contest", Smith said. "I will come back next year and try again. I was here for a repeat but Joy (Monahan) is an amazing surfer. She really deserves to be crowned champion."

Leah Dawson (USA), other semifinalist of the Roxy ASP Women’s World Longboard Championships, secured her best result to date with an equal 3rd. Dawson, who placed equal 9th in 2007, created the upset of the final day when she defeated French favorite and 2007 ASP Women’s World Tour No. 2 Justine Dupont in the Quarterfnals in a close heat.

Dupont, 16, who placed 3rd in the ASP Grade-2 Roxy Pro Junior Tuesday, lost by 0.90 points and was disappointed with the result.

"I am very disappointed because I surfed this morning before the event and I was confident", Dupont said. "I think I was not patient enough to wait for the better waves and a bit tired after  my performance in the final of Roxy Pro Junior yesterday."

The Roxy ASP Women’s World Longboard Championships will be back next year at the beautiful beach of La Cote des Basques in Biarritz.

Final of the Roxy Jam:

Heat : Joy Monahan (HAW) 14.10 pts Def. Chelsea Williams (AUS) 13.50

Source: ASP World Tour

Brazil to host ASP World Masters 2008 - by surfetoday.com

For the first time in five years, the ASP World Masters Championships will assemble some of the most legendary names in professional surfing to Rio de Janeiro’s Barra de Tijuca from June 30 through July 6, 2008 to crown the 2008 ASP World Masters and ASP World Grand Masters Champions.

The Rio Masters will feature two divisions in the ASP Masters (surfers aged over 35) and the ASP Grand Masters (surfers aged over 47).  The top 14 in each division are invited directly off of ASP career ratings (points being accrued by winning ASP World Titles, Top 5 World rankings, Top 10 World rankings and time spent on the ASP World Tour).

“To look at this list of names, I find it just a staggering congregation of talent,” Brodie Carr, ASP CEO, said.  “This field is well representative of the pioneers of our sport, and those who have seen these living legends surf recently will attest that they haven’t lost a step at all.  They’re all still ripping and so hungry to get back in the competition singlet.  It’s very exciting to have the ASP World Masters Championships back on the schedule in 2008 and I feel like this season’s event will be one of the year’s highlights.”
Confirmed athletes to this season’s Rio Masters include former ASP World Champions Mark Occhilupo (AUS), Shaun Tomson (ZAF), Peter Townend (AUS), Rabbit Bartholomew (AUS), Tom Curren (USA), Damien Hardmen (AUS), Martin Potter (ZAF) and Derek Ho (HAW) as well as former ASP World Masters Champions Gary Elkerton (AUS), Michael Ho (HAW), Cheyne Horan (AUS) and Terry Richardson (AUS).  Other confirmed athletes include Brad Gerlach (USA), Rob Bain (AUS), Dave Macaulay (AUS), Hans Hedemann (HAW), Buzzy Kerbox (HAW), Simon Anderson (AUS) and Ian Cairns (AUS).

Tomson, who claimed the ASP World Title in 1977, is eager to return to the competitive scene and looks forward to rejoining his fellow surfers in the idyllic beachbreaks of Barra de Tijuca in Brazil. “Wonderful to have the Masters back on again,” Tomson said.  “I’ll be there with bells on and definitely looking forward to seeing the guys again and having a great event in Rio.”

The 2008 Rio Masters will be the first of a three-year license for Brazil, and this year’s event will stand alone in terms of Masters events, crowning both the ASP World Masters Champion and ASP World Grand Masters Champion.

“It’s with a great enthusiasm that ASP (Association of Surfing Professionals) together with Pepper Comunicação Integrada has the pleasure to announce the ASP World Masters Championship 2008,” Pepper’s Paulo Costa Jr. said. “After five-year absence, the event returns to the world competition scene through the partnership between the greatest surfing entity on the planet and one of the most important agencies of communication and marketing in Brazil.”

“This effective teamwork certainly promises to be a success, bringing the icons of surf, such as Tom Curren, Shaun Tomson, Rabbit Bartholomew, Martin Potter, Gary Elkerton, Damien Hardman, Brad Gerlach, Peter Townend, Cheyne Horan, among others, back in a real meeting of champions in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil,” Costa Jr. continued. “In addition to having the surfers who have influenced generations over the years, the event will proudly gather music, art, life style and environmental actions together into an unforgettable surf festival between June 30 and July 6.”

The 2008 ASP World Masters Championships begins its waiting period on June 30, 2008.

Source: ASP World Tour

Billabong XXL reaches 420 surf photos - by surfetoday.com

New entries are flooding in from Europe, Hawaii and California, and with less than a month remaining in the annual cycle for the Billabong XXL Global Big Wave Awards presented by Monster Energy, few are doubting that a number of records are going to be shattered.  The last eleven months have proven among the most extraordinary in the history of big wave surfing, with an unprecedented 420+ entry images from all around the planet providing visual evidence of the mammoth surf on the event website at BillabongXXL.com.

New video clips and still photos continue to arrive week after week in all key categories of the event including the Billabong XXL Ride of the Year Award, Billabong XXL Biggest Wave Award powered by Honda, Monster Tube Award and Monster Paddle Award.  Also featured are the Surfline Best Overall Performance Award and the Billabong Girl's Performance Award.  In total, over $120,000 in prize money will be awarded in the eighth annual edition of big wave surfing's top event.  The competition is open to all qualified, invited surfers at any surf break around the world over the course of a full year and is based on the photographic evidence.

Although there is still plenty of time for more shocking swell events to occur before the event period concludes with the Vernal (Spring) Equinox on March 19, 2008 the world's big wave elite are already making plans to attend the gala Billabong XXL Awards ceremony this April 11 at the Grove Theater in Anaheim, California.

While the 2000 seats at the Grove are invitation only, the entire evening's activities from Red Carpet arrivals to the final award will be broadcast during a live webcast at http://www.billabongxxl.com/ and televised at a later date.
A truly global event, a number of European surfers have surged to new levels of XXL respect in recent months, with entries from France and Ireland offering their credentials as potential contenders.  The legendary Belharra Reef off southern France has reared its head once again, with an epic ride by Vincent Lartizen (Hossegor, France) reminding all of that break's leap onto the world stage in 2003.  Likewise, the British Isles have made their first real push to prominence with performances by Duncan Scott (Newquay, Cornwall, England) and Alistair Mennie (Portrush, Northern Ireland) at Mullaghmore Head in Donegal and beneath the imposing Cliffs of Moher in County Claire.

The Monster Paddle Award has likewise become intensely competitive with extremely fresh entries from Maverick's in Northern California and Waimea Bay on the North Shore of Oahu. Hawaii's Kalani Chapman and female phenom Maya Gaberia of Brazil both weighed in with some Valentine's Day bombs last Thursday at Waimea.  As the same swell made its way to the west coast the following day, it was 18-Year-old Nick Lamb (Santa Cruz) who scratched into the wave of the session at Mavericks.

These new entries join some formidable company with amazing rides so far registered in such diverse locales as Chile, Tahiti, Western Australia, South Africa, Mexico, Tasmania and Spain. In addition to all the latest entries in each category, full event details including formats, rules and archives of past XXL years can be seen at the event website at http://www.billabongxxl.com/.

Source: Billabong XXL

Raoni Monteiro wins the Hang Loose Pro - by .surfertoday.com

Brazilian Raoni Monteiro won the ASP WQS 5-Star PRIME Hang Loose Pro at Cacimba do Padre today in barreling waves of four-to-six feet (2 metre) height. Monteiro won the great final over American Gabe Kling, who already made the finals at Fernando de Noronha Island in 2006. Until last year, both surfers were competing on the ASP World Tour, and now with this excellent result, they will try to return to the ASP World Tour next year.

“Thats it, 13 victories in Hang Loose to Brazil and 12 for the rest of the World, but the most important is that we had excellent waves every day for the whole contest, a lot of tubes, great wheater, sun, hot and next year there will be more,” Álfio Lagnado, President of Hang Loose Company, said. Since 1986, Lagnado has organised the most traditional surf contests in Brazil, holding the Hang Loose Pro Contest in places like Florianópolis (SC), Guarujá (SP), Baía de Maracaípe (PE), Cabo de Santo Agostinho (PE), Maresias (SP) and Fernando de Noronha (PE).

With a beatiful barrel from the biggest set on his first wave of the final, Monteiro started the final with a 8.83 score. Then, in the middle of the heat, the Brazilian scored a 6.60 wave to put Gabe in combination situation, and finished the final with 15.43 points against the 9.50 points of Kling. Kling had a solid second semi-final, winning the heat against Brazilian Hizunome Bettero, finishing with 16.44 points against 15.10 of Hizunome.

“I really wanted to win this event, because since Japan, a long time a go, i didn´t won a contest, and now i am really happy and i don´t know what to say” this was the first words of the new champion of the Hang Loose Pro Contest. “I did everything right since my first heat, i stayed calm every heat and the result of this week was this victory. I promised to my daughter that i would bring this title back home” said Raoni Monteiro, who were in ASP Men´s World Tour last year and now he will try to return to the World Tour next year.
“I want to thank the people of Noronha, the local surfers, and this wonderful place, that always give us excellent waves, sun, big barrels and this great event. I also wish to thank Alfio Lagnado (Hang Loose CEO) to bring every year this contest to this magical Island” said the winner, who earned 12.000 dollars and 2.500 World Qualifying Series ratings points, and moved to the 4th position in ‘QS ranking after his victory in 2008 Hang Loose Pro Contest.

Now the American Gabe Kling received 6.000 dollars and 2.188 points to move directly to 6th place in the ‘QS ranking after 3 stops. “I am stocked, this a great result to start this season. I wanted clear win, but Raoni surfed really good and i didn´t found the waves. But anyway i happy with my result” said Gabe Kling (27), who also finish in second place in Hang Loose Pro Contest when he entry in the ASP Men´s World Tour two years ago. “I hope that things happen again in the same way as the last time. I really wants to return to the WCT Tour next year. Is too early, but anyway this was a great first step, so i am very happy”.

Brazilian Hizunomê Bettero and the Spanish surfer from Canary Islands Jonathan Gonzalez finished in third in Fernando de Noronha. Hizunome also finish in third place in 2006. “Once again the dream of the final has been postponed. There were really great waves in the semi-finals but i couldn´t advanced, but a third place here in a 5 star prime event is a good way to start. I really wants to entry in ASP Men´s World Tour next year and i still confident that this will be a good year for me” said Hizunomê Bettero, who had a great perfomance in the tubes of Cacimba do Padre beach.

After the Hang Loose Pro Contest the next stops of WQS Tour will be in March in Australia. WQS Tour will return to Brazil in June with two events, one in Praia do Forte, Bahia and another in Guarujá, São Paulo. Them we will have another event in September at São Francisco do Sul, Santa Catarina and the last four events of ASP South America will be in October in: Costão do Santinho, Florianópolis (SC), Rio de Janeiro (RJ), Itajaí (SC) and the last one in Ubatuba (SP). And to finish, the only stop of ASP Men´s World Tour in South America, the Hang Loose Santa Catarina Pro, that will be disputed again in Imbituba (SC), from October-28 to November-05.

Source: ASP World Tour

Surf City USA legal battle is over - by surfertoday.com

The city’s visitors bureau have guaranteed its exclusive Surf City USA trademark, ending a legal battle with a Santa Cruz shop owner who sued them over the brand use. Huntington Beach City reached a settlement with Santa Cruz, after a dispute reignited in 2004.

The Surf City USA® brand began as a concept proposed at a brand discovery workshop of the Huntington Beach Conference and Visitors Bureau on July 20, 2004. At the time, workshop participants felt that the City’s official nickname, “Surf City” – representing the idealized Southern California beach town celebrated in a Jan & Dean song by the same title – represented a potential brand position that could be used to promote the city.
The Surf City name was not unique, however. It belonged to other municipalities in America. Nothing distinguished it from the popular song title of the 1960s. As such, the “USA” phrase was placed at the end of the title to give it more cache and international stature. The intent was to create a brand position that could be clearly associated with a lifestyle and state-of-mind rather than a song or place on the map.

Six potential brand positions including the Surf City USA phrase were subsequently tested in an online focus group, visitor intercept study, local industry survey and on-line survey of 40,000 travelers in the western U.S. The research revealed immense potential for the Surf City USA name. A subsequent trademark and online search determined the phrase was not trademarked nor being used to promote any other city, product or service.

On November 17, 2004, four applications to register the Surf City USA trademark were filed with the U.S. Patent & Trademark Office. Only nine days later, the news was reported in the Orange County Register, picked up by the Associated Press and spread across the U.S. No one in their wildest dreams had imagined the newly minted trademark would interest so many people.

News of the trademark registrations was greeted by a laugh from the Mayor of Surf City, N.C. The Borough of Surf City, N.J. didn’t respond at all. But in the northern California beach community of Santa Cruz, officials appeared to be fighting mad. The Mayor told reporters, “I think they’re [Huntington Beach] a bunch of wimps.” He suggested a surf-off to settle who should own the trademark.

Media interest skyrocketed. Why the controversy? Bureau officials were surprised to read that “Surf City” was considered a nickname for Santa Cruz, too. Furthermore, Santa Cruz officials had fought an attempt by Huntington Beach during the 1990s to pass a resolution in the state legislature naming it “Surf City.” The ancient conflict had triggered a knee-jerk defensive reaction. There was really nothing to fight about but no one in the press seemed to care.

A tsunami of news coverage followed over the next 10 months to report about the new brand name and which town was the real “Surf City.” More than 200 articles appeared in major publications across the world, in additional to international news broadcasts on radio and TV. The publicity had an equivalent advertising value worth millions of dollars as both cities were thrust onto the world stage for comparison and commentary.

Looking back in history, one of life’s many ironies may be thatofficials from a small college town in northern California unwittingly helped to make the official brand of Huntington Beach a huge success from almost the day it was launched. The irreverent and defiant response from Santa Cruz officials helped to give the Surf City USA brand public awareness and equity that normally would have taken years to cultivate.

Even as heightened public attention placed heavy demand on Bureau staff to respond to inquiries, its Board of Directors stayed focused. In January of 2005, an internet-based survey of Huntington Beach citizens discovered overwhelming local approval for marketing the community with the Surf City USA brand. With a margin of error of +/- 6.6 percent, 92 percent of residents thought the name fit from “fairly well” to “perfectly.” Bolstered by the findings, the Bureau summarized the key research findings to date and commissioned five local graphic artists to design 44 different potential brand logo designs. In May
of 2004, four final logo treatments were selected and published on the internet for a public vote. Within three weeks, 1,110 visitors and 505 residents had logged online to register their thoughts in the debate.

In a Board meeting covered by reporters from the Los Angeles Times, Orange County Register and the community’s two weekly newspapers, the Bureau’s Board of Directors voted to support the election results. The surfboard shaped logo with the Huntington Beach Pier in the upper left hand corner was adopted on July 12, 2005. Few brands or brand logos have been created with an equivalent foundation of research and public input. Following 18 months of review and questioning by the U.S.

Patent & Trademark Office, three of the first Surf City USA trademark registrations were granted on May 11, 2006. The news again generated worldwide media coverage worth millions of dollars.

More than 100 articles appeared in significant publications worldwide, as well as national news coverage on most of the major cable TV stations including CNN and MSNBC.

As a nonprofit entity where “profits” are not distributed to shareholders, the long-term vision of the Huntington Beach Conference and Visitors Bureau is to create a 501(c)3 philanthropic subsidiary – the Surf City USA Foundation – to perpetuate the Surf City USA spirit in Huntington Beach. A portion of revenues derived from the brand could be used to construct the world’s ultimate surfing museum, as well as other projects.

Source: Surf City USA

Greg Long wins the Mavericks Surf Contest - by surfertoday.com

After months of tracking the patterns of Mother Nature and officially receiving a greenlight less than 48 hours ago from Contest Director Jeff Clark, the 2007/2008 Mavericks Surf Contest was held yesterday in solid 25-30 foot swell. The event, which brought 24 of the world’s most accomplished big-wave surfers to one of the most infamous breaks on the planet, culminated in a hard fought victory for San Clemente, Calif., native, Greg Long.

“Greg’s been pushing the limits,” said Contest Director Jeff Clark. “With his natural talent it’s not a surprise to see him learning the ropes quickly and becoming one of the best big-wave surfers.”
Following six intense heats featuring some of the finest watermen, in ideal Mavericks conditions, the finals are already being recognized as one of the most competitive and inspirational in the Contest’s history. Despite the high stakes and back and forth lead changes, camaraderie ultimately stole the spotlight when, at the post-event awards ceremony, it was revealed that the six finalists, while looking out at seemingly flat water, agreed to split their shares of the prize purse evenly no matter the outcome.

Shortly after the agreement in the water, a premiere set appeared out of nowhere, which Contest Champion, Long rode for an unprecedented perfect 10. Claiming one-sixth share of the final round prize purse with Long were fellow finalists (in respective order of finish) Grant “Twiggy” Baker (ZAF), Jamie Sterling (HAW), Tyler Smith (Calif.), Grant Washburn (Calif.) and Evan Slater (Calif.) in sixth. Not all spoils were split evenly, as Long was additionally awarded with a one-of-a-kind high performance Reactor watch and a hand shaped Jeff Clark surfboard.

“The first heat is the biggest hurdle. Making the semifinals is a huge accomplishment but becoming the Mavericks Surf Contest® Champion is a dream come true,” said Long. “I am humbled.”

Jamie Sterling was honored with the Jay Moriarity award for the intense spirit and passion he exemplifies for big-wave surfing. Clif Bar presented Grant “Twiggy” Baker with the Clif Bar Green Room Award, for getting the biggest, deepest barrel of the day, which is vied for and voted for by the surfers themselves.

A record number of surf fans enjoyed the action at the beach as thousands descended on Pillar Point. Even more enjoyed the alternate viewing options as more than 250,000 viewed the free-live webcast on Myspace.com and more than 1,000 people watched the competition on the big screen at the live viewing party at AT&T Park in San Francisco.

Source: Mavericks Surf Contest

JOHN FLORENCE PREPS FOR THE VANS TRIPLE CROWN - by surfnewsnetwork.com

Nov 2011

John Florence (HAW), 18, has established himself as arguably the best Pipeline surfer in the world well before the end of his teens. After joining the ASP Top 34 at the midyear rotation, the young Hawaiian Prodigy has proven himself in everything... ...high-performance waves at Lowers to the powerful barrels of Peniche and now that the waiting period for the ASP Specialty Vans Triple Crown has kicked off, ESPN caught up with Florence to get his thoughts on his first few events on the ASP World Tour and where his head was at entering the prestigious events held at his house. This… is their story…
 ESPN: So, you’re on tour now. Is it everything you’ve ever dreamed?
Florence: It’s definitely different than what I expected from the time I was little. It’s hard. You have to go into every event with 100 percent confidence and just surf your best because everyone there is there to win and no one is going to give you the heat. You have to win by a mile to really make a heat.The last interview we did was in your tree house. A lot has changed since then. What has been the hardest part of adjusting to the tour, in and out of the water?

Yeah, ever since I got on the tour my schedule has been crazy. Going to contests back to back, World Tour and Primes, I’ve noticed a lot more things with my surfing that could be improved for my heats to improve. Staying focused throughout all of those events for months at a time is hard to adjust to, but definitely fun.For the full Florence interview log on to ESPN.com

Surfing Life's Oakley Big Wave Awards - by www.surfnewsnetwork.com

OCT 2011

These are the dangers of surfing an isolated and intimidating break in the far south west of the continent where seven metre deep ocean swells explode over limestone reef, as explained by Big Wave Surfer, Mark Mathews. In the last couple of weeks, the West Australian coast has come alive with gigantic swells, thrusting the region back into the Surfing Life?s Oakley Big Wave Awards spotlight with renewed vigour.
From the madness has come magic: two thrilling contenders for the $35,000 prize pool. Both contenders ended in abrupt, violent and life-threatening wipeouts for the surfers involved; Maroubra?s Mark Mathews and the Gold Coast?s Ryan Hipwood.
Mathews is currently busy touring his feature film, Fighting Fear, with fellow Maroubra surfer and MMA fighter, Richie Vaculik, detailing their struggles, determination and journey to become professional athletes. Mathews has been victorious in the Awards at this location before, but this session was different.
?It was definitely heavier than I had surfed it before, a lot heavier,? Mathews says. ?A lot of waves weren?t actually makeable. The majority of waves I?ve ridden here hit the reef perfectly, but some of them just got really ugly? this was one of the ugly ones.?
Ryan Hipwood agrees of the dangers surrounding this session, ?It is always a hard to judge out there. You can?t really tell how big it is till you see someone on one. I?d say it was anywhere between 12 to 20 feet. It can be one the heaviest waves in the world.? And when things go wrong on one of these giant, slabbing waves, the consequences can be dire.
?You don't want to get hit by that lip,? explains Mathews, ?You feel like your legs are going to be ripped off. If you leave any part of your body stretched out, it'll take it. I've torn the ligaments off my knee out there.? Despite the dangers, these latest entries in Surfing Life?s Oakley Big Wave Awards sum up the essence of this prestigious competition ? commitment, daring, suspense ? and, of course, one REALLY BIG WAVE!

With only two and a half months remaining in the competition period, and an active late season southern ocean making itself felt from Western Australia to New Zealand, the scene is set for another bar-pushing, precedent-setting event. The Awards will be judged in early February 2011.

www.surfinglife.com.au/bigwaveawards